The Beehive

White Waltham, Berkshire

Rating: Good

Modern British | Pub

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Good

Deliciousness: Good

Warmth: Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

‘When a match is in progress we recommend you follow the action’ is the wise advice posted in the Beehive’s front garden, just across the road from the village cricket field. A hefty six might well land in your pint of Rebellion ale, but fortunately the larger back garden is equally gorgeous. Elder sibling to the Crown at Burchett's Green, and with some similarities in its menu, this hostelry has been run by Dominic and Helena Chapman since 2014. Inside is smart and seemly, with a small bar area and a spacious well-lit dining room. A muted beige colour scheme is spiced up with a classic pop soundtrack and attractive photos of wildlife and livestock. Well-heeled locals populate the place even on a midweek lunchtime. The food is the draw, with warm slices of moist garlic and chive focaccia indicating notable talent in the kitchen. Signature dishes such as a starter of wild rabbit lasagne (also served at the Crown) provide further confirmation: delicate pasta encasing plentiful stewed rabbit, complemented by a creamy sauce of wood blewit mushrooms. Modern Anglo-French cooking is the norm, but forays into Asia aren’t unknown, as evidenced by a complex main course of meaty pan-roast halibut, served with a succulent king prawn spring roll, tangy pickled Chinese cabbage, crispy kale and satay sauce – an abundance of punchy flavours. At their best, desserts show admirable poise: a millefeuille of exquisite fragility with a creamy hazelnut and mascarpone filling was well matched by the intense flavours of Tia Maria and coffee ice cream. Prices are high and the no-choice set lunch menu doesn’t always measure up. Thick cauliflower and cheese soup, a side dish of glutinous mash and an overcooked rhubarb tart were below par at inspection – though the juicy bavette main course was a lovely piece of meat. Breezy, capable staff and a wine list worthy of exploration keep Maidenhead’s beau monde returning.

Rating: Good

Modern British | Pub

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Good

Deliciousness: Good

Warmth: Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

Dining Information:

Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Credit card required

Waltham Road, White Waltham, Berkshire SL6 3SH

01628 822877