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Osma

Greater Manchester, Prestwich - Modern European - Restaurant - ££

Very Nordic, very magical suburban kitchen-bar

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

One of the first contemporary restaurants to open in gastronomically re-energised Prestwich, Osma occupies the ground floor of a new-build corner block with two stylish seating areas: as you enter, the eye is drawn to a high central table over which hangs a large floating basket of dried flowers and grasses; the adjoining room has curved leather banquettes and tables topped with oxblood-veined marble. The outlook is main-road nondescript but the dark tones of the interior and subdued lighting make a subtle setting for the self-described ‘kitchen-bar.’ The welcome and service are northern-friendly, efficient and unobtrusive. When Osma first opened, the focus was on melding Scandinavian and modern Mancunian culinary influences (reflecting the origins of its co-owners) but nowadays the references are broader, taking in east Asian and Mediterranean ideas – although there is still a distinctly Nordic interest in techniques such as pickling and fermentation. The ...

One of the first contemporary restaurants to open in gastronomically re-energised Prestwich, Osma occupies the ground floor of a new-build corner block with two stylish seating areas: as you enter, the eye is drawn to a high central table over which hangs a large floating basket of dried flowers and grasses; the adjoining room has curved leather banquettes and tables topped with oxblood-veined marble. The outlook is main-road nondescript but the dark tones of the interior and subdued lighting make a subtle setting for the self-described ‘kitchen-bar.’ The welcome and service are northern-friendly, efficient and unobtrusive.

When Osma first opened, the focus was on melding Scandinavian and modern Mancunian culinary influences (reflecting the origins of its co-owners) but nowadays the references are broader, taking in east Asian and Mediterranean ideas – although there is still a distinctly Nordic interest in techniques such as pickling and fermentation. The kitchen's way with sauces has also been praised.

The menu changes regularly, sourcing is important, and the format is small plates – although ‘small’ is a somewhat flexible definition. Deep-fried soft-shell crab, just in from Cornwall, should have been an outstanding starter, although the hot, crunchy and salty-sweet crustacean suffered from a tepid, aromatic tom yum broth in an icy cold ceramic bowl. The star turn of our visit was hogget loin with celeriac purée, pickled maitake mushrooms and red wine jus. The beautiful, savoury meat was served with spot-on gravy (the result of lengthy, painstaking reduction) poured from a jug at the table. To conclude, chocolate crémeux with cinnamon ice cream and liqueur-soaked cherries was suitably lush and voluptuous.

Sunday roasts are well-priced, regularly praised and always booked in advance, while the food is backed by a short but thoughtfully devised wine list. If you fancy a taste of Osma in the city, there's an offshoot in the food hall at Exhibition Manchester on Peter Street.

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VENUE DETAILS

132 Bury New Road
Prestwich
Greater Manchester
M25 0AAGB

0161 706 0934

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly

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