Orasay
Notting Hill, London
Jackson Boxer’s Notting Hill restaurant tips its hat to the faraway Hebridean isle of Orasay, although there’s nothing strictly Caledonian about this neighbourly eatery. Inside, muted tones, natural finishes and light wood furnishings make what is a long and narrow space feel pleasant, while the best tables are right at the back where the room opens up and a skylight floods it with natural light. Seafood from British waters is the kitchen’s calling card, and it delivers freshness as well as flavour and invention. To start, a bright dish of aged chalk stream trout arrives with translucent discs of Tokyo turnip and diced forced rhubarb in a delicate dressing, but don’t miss Boxer’s famed potato bread – a deservedly renowned mainstay topped with whipped cod’s roe and dressed with blood-orange kosho. Mains could bring an enormous hunk of glossy Shetland cod with some good companions including Jerusalem artichoke, broccoli and a Bourgogne Blanc sauce, or an equally impressive serving of white crab and smoked tomato strozzapreti – beautifully balanced, with vibrant flavours, lots of depth and the warm buzz of chilli heat. If you are in the mood for meat, you might have to be content with a Tamworth pork chop with sauce charcutière. After the savouries, a dessert of Cru Virunga chocolate mousse with caramelised white chocolate and hazelnuts provides a ‘lovely, if uncomplicated finish’. Service on our visit was decidedly slapdash, although there’s no arguing with the warmth of the welcome, the value for money or the sheer quality of the cooking. The drinks list encompasses some intriguing non-alcoholic spirits as well as ‘keg wines’ by the glass or carafe plus a modest collection of fashionable tipples; also ask to see the ‘black book’ of more exclusive vintages if you’re feeling flush.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Family friendly, Dog friendly
31 Kensington Park Road, Notting Hill W11 2EU
020 7043 1400
