Kysty
Ambleside, Cumbria
Kysty (pronounced ‘Kai-stee’, according to owner and Langdale native Ryan Blackburn) began life as a casual alternative to the chef’s Old Stamp House, just round the corner. Under the stewardship of Stamp House alumnus Dan Hopkins, however, Kysty has become an ambitious attraction in its own right, not least for diners who would rather eat à la carte than from a tasting menu. The restaurant’s name is old Cumbrian dialect for a fussy eater, though Hopkins’ fiercely local, rigorously seasonal cooking is so assured that it is impossible to imagine anyone rejecting what comes out of the open kitchen. Intricate presentation might see a tuile fashioned into the veined shape of an autumn leaf resting atop a knockout starter of Thornby Moor goat’s cheese with fermented beetroot, walnut, caraway and apple, a beguiling merry-go-round of smooth and sharp flavours, creamy and crunchy textures. Three shards of thinly sliced walnut-bread toast, meanwhile, are inserted into a generously flavoured venison tartare with shallot, parsnip, wild garlic and pickled redcurrrants: as lovely to look at as it is to eat. Hopkins’ vision has evolved from his days as the Stamp House’s sous-chef into something creative and contemporary that while possessing a strong family resemblance is also distinctly individual: a sweet and savoury plate of salt-fed duck with chicory, parsnip and a sesame tuile, say, or a terrific vegetarian main of roast cauliflower with hazelnut, mushroom, black-garlic emulsion and crispy kale both impress with punchy flavours held in balance. Some dishes nod towards Cumbrian classics: (Arctic) char comes with rhubarb, radish, pickled tapioca and dashi, though the humanely killed fish (ikejime style) is landed in the North Sea not Lake Windermere; Morecambe Bay shrimps are potted with saffron oil and spiced cauliflower velouté, while the Grasmere' s famed gingerbread is here interpreted as gingerbread cheesecake and topped with whatever is in season (poached rhubarb and rhubarb sorbet, say). Extras such as dense soda bread with vividly yellow butter and canapés of beetroot meringue and black pudding bonbons are no less accomplished, each course comes with a suggested wine pairing from the short but thoughtful list, and there are properly made cocktails (a rarity in Cumbria) in the tiny front bar. The small but well-spaced dining room, hung with moody black-and-white photos of windswept fells and Herdwick sheep, is much like the food: determinedly modern but with a strong sense of Cumbrian place.
Dining Information:
Counter seating, Family friendly, Credit card required
3-4 Cheapside, Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 0AB
015394 33647
