Hawthorn
Kew, London
For years, the Glasshouse near Kew station was a cherished local favourite, although regulars visiting its new incarnation may at least recognise one familiar face. Yes, warm-hearted Patra Panas is still there, and still overseeing front-of house. This time, however, she is also co-owner, running the horticulturally named Hawthorn with chef Joshua Hunter. With glass walls all around, dining here has always been a bit like ‘eating in a fish tank’, but the simple furnishings, well-spaced white-clothed tables and cheerily professional staff in splendid green wool waistcoats speak of conviviality, unhurried old-school civility and special occasions. ‘If I had grown up nearby, I’d have wanted to come here for my birthday every year,’ mused an inspector. The food doesn’t disappoint, either: what Hunter’s team offer is refined contemporary European cooking, strong on flavour and pretty presentation, with plenty of seasonal British ingredients on show. From our samplings, fish was handled with flair and precision: there was a springtime vivacity about a starter of poached chalk stream trout with lovage vichyssoise and Jersey Royals, while roast skate wing proved to be a more robust plateful embellished with smoked creamed potato, caramelised cauliflower, brown shrimps and jus gras. Elsewhere, Longhorn picanha had impressive depth of flavour and was admirably supported by a plethora of accompaniments including wild garlic purée, unctuous smoked bone-marrow butter, bacon dauphinoise and shiitake mushrooms. Puddings are undeniably generous, whether you go for a stylish affogato with white chocolate stracciatella ice cream or a deliciously light rum baba with silky chocolate sorbet and sharp notes of pear in the background. Lunch, in particular, ‘feels like great value’ for cooking and service of this quality, although the bill will mount up quickly if you delve into wide-ranging global wine list.
