Eline
Hackney, London
What do you picture when you imagine a neighbourhood eatery in urban Hoxton? Probably not the ‘coastal grandmother’ aesthetic of newcomer Eline, with its pale wood, vintage linens and 'ticking' cushions. Antique copper pans, dried flowers and stick back chairs detract from the fact that it’s in a new build. The restaurant is the creation of husband-and-wife team Alex Reynolds and Maria Viviani, who met at east London bakery group Pophams. Reynolds (ex-Hide) changes the menu monthly, drawing inspiration from his French upbringing along with the availability of local produce. We started with a snack: fragile-shelled cheese and onion croquettes, with a piping-hot liquid centre that rendered the accompanying cheese dip redundant. Another snack, whipped chicken liver parfait, has earned a permanent place on the menu. On a springtime visit, the menu also included asparagus with poached egg and Parmesan, as well as delicate monkfish carpaccio with wild garlic flowers, fragrant bergamot and white asparagus sauce. The latter, in particular, cried out for a special bottle from the lovingly handpicked, European wine list. We were less impressed by a main course of grey mullet. The fish skin was blackened but the flesh underneath was underdone and chewy – although the accompanying peas and broad beans were so sweet and so good in their own right that they didn't benefit from being grilled. Lavinton lamb with courgette, goat's cheese and mead, however, was impeccably cooked – a first-class dish that wouldn’t look out of place in a formal fine-dining restaurant. Credit to Eline for bringing back old-school baking, too. There aren’t many small eateries that will take on tarts, millefeuilles, religieuses and vol-au-vents these days. It did raise our hopes for the clafoutis – although this version (a nice enough ensemble of cherry, custard and almond biscuit) wasn't exactly the real thing. In spite of a few niggles, we came away feeling charmed. Hoxton hangouts don't always have that effect.
Dining Information:
Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required
1c Rosewood Building, Cremer Street, Hackney E2 8GX
020 4547 2702
