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Brett

Strathclyde, Glasgow - Modern European - Restaurant - £££

High-class complex cooking over fire

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Brett successfully pulls off that tricky balance of delivering high-class and complex cooking within a buzzy neighbourhood atmosphere. Exposed stonework and monochrome decor provide an unfussy backdrop for closely packed tables and counter seating, where diners might appreciate the 'interactions with the chefs whose enthusiasm is infectious'.  Front of house is warm and casual, while table settings are equally laid-back – raw linen napkins providing a cheeky decorative nod to Glasgow iconography.  Under executive chef Colin Anderson, the offer has evolved from a ‘naturally’ inclined wine bar with small plates to a focused à la carte restaurant – although drinks and nibbles remain a popular pavement option on sunny days. Menus showcase seasonality and localism, plus a passion for cooking over fire in the open galley kitchen. Snacks such as a Basque-inspired gilda (skewered olives, anchovies and spicy pickled pepper) on a chicken-fat cro&uci...

Brett successfully pulls off that tricky balance of delivering high-class and complex cooking within a buzzy neighbourhood atmosphere. Exposed stonework and monochrome decor provide an unfussy backdrop for closely packed tables and counter seating, where diners might appreciate the 'interactions with the chefs whose enthusiasm is infectious'.  Front of house is warm and casual, while table settings are equally laid-back – raw linen napkins providing a cheeky decorative nod to Glasgow iconography. 

Under executive chef Colin Anderson, the offer has evolved from a ‘naturally’ inclined wine bar with small plates to a focused à la carte restaurant – although drinks and nibbles remain a popular pavement option on sunny days. Menus showcase seasonality and localism, plus a passion for cooking over fire in the open galley kitchen. Snacks such as a Basque-inspired gilda (skewered olives, anchovies and spicy pickled pepper) on a chicken-fat croûton or flame-scorched barbecued lamb breast with Scotch bonnet and aubergine miso prepare the palate – perhaps with an extended skin-contact orange wine as an aperitif. 

Starters might include a rich but not cloying mushroom XO linguine with Cantabrian anchovies and aged Parmesan topped with crispy leek 'angel-hair'. A standout main of stuffed chicken 'hind' and Orkney scallop served ballotine style and finished with morel purée and a consommé of chicken bone and scallop exemplifies the kitchen's culinary craft. The small dessert selection could include a golden mango and Flor de Caña brûlée with crispy milk skin and pulled toffee, which is imaginative and suitably grown-up. 

Quality cooking and ingredients don’t come cheap, even in a neighbourhood setting, and three courses can easily hit £75 without drinks. This makes the two-course lunchtime option for £32 particularly tempting. Distinctive house cocktails and some interesting rotating wines by the glass are supported by an extensive bottled list ranging from £29 for the house options to north of £300 for some fancy Burgundies.

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VENUE DETAILS

321 Great Western Road
Glasgow
Strathclyde
G4 9HRGB

0141 406 0284

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Credit card required

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