Wild Shropshire
Whitchurch, Shropshire
Surrounded by picturesque half-timbered buildings and Roman artefacts in one of England’s oldest, continually inhabited towns, chef/owner James Sherwin’s first restaurant taps into similarly deeply rooted regional food cultures. Taking his cue from a succession of inspired pop-ups, this largely self-trained enthusiast opened Wild Shropshire as a more refined bricks-and-mortar set-up on its current site in 2020. Promoting simplicity rather than showiness, the former shop has benefited from a Scandi-sleek makeover. With an evangelical focus on sustainability, seasonality and produce grounded in defined terroir, James allows each ingredient to tell its own tale and then weaves everything together into more complex stories that he personally shares with diners as he works the tables. A nine-course ‘surprise’ tasting menu shaped by daily supplies is only revealed by a gnomic list of ingredients at the conclusion of the meal. Whether you love or hate that non-negotiable device, it does force the focus onto flavour. Each little dish is prettily presented with its own purposeful degree of provocation. A boned chicken wing with koji and oyster leaf plays with your perceptions, while tiny sweet potatoes in parsley oil and buttermilk offer sensations that exceed such humble ingredients. A homemade loaf is styled as ‘elderflower and kelp’ – elements that are woven into the glaze, whipped butter and dipping cream. Foraging, fermenting and a zero-waste philosophy all feature heavily and there is more than a nod to Japanese culinary culture with a house furikake of salted onion and thyme, a quince kosho and a sake-lees ice cream all gracing the table. This is clever and ambitious cooking that feels authentically aligned to Shropshire’s wild harvest, despite a few mildly indulgent 'cheffy' gimmicks. The sommelier’s contribution is also well-integrated, with four different pairing options, some quirky cocktails (a Bittersweet Symphony of artichoke gin and Cynar perhaps?) and a short but imaginative list of predominantly natural wines (mostly from small producers), plus beers, ciders and softs. With around 20 covers and a largely solo open kitchen, this is an intimate and informal experience, while limited opening times mean that advance booking is essential.
