Trinity
Clapham, London
Don’t underestimate Trinity. For devotees, it’s ‘far and away the best place to eat in or around Clapham – amazing for the area’. The big glass frontage creates a pleasantly airy ambience and floods the dining room with natural light during the day, the only soundtrack being lively conversation, spilling onto the small terrace. It’s a cool, relaxed place, but the draw here is the food. The menu is a fixed-price affair (have anything from three to six courses), but it never fails to interest. Adam Byatt’s cooking is refined by classical technique and embraces modern ingredients and flavours – his dishes are full of clever ideas, with lots of intricate detailing on the plate. The sweet meatiness of a ceviche of yellowfin tuna is balanced by avocado, green apple and a puddle of tomato, soy and ponzu; a wonderfully delicate courgette flower, stuffed with the lightest salmon mousseline, is enhanced by tender braised fennel and a rich tomato-butter sauce; while turbot steamed in a fig leaf with ratatouille and Champagne sauce is a classic combination of flavour and texture. Otherwise, it could be beef tartare with pickled mushrooms and oscietra caviar followed by Cumbrian lamb T-bone à la niçoise. For one reporter at least, they saved the best till last – a beautifully composed tartlet of raspberries and rose with a Champagne syllabub. The wine list is an 'absolute banger – worth the trip alone'. It’s not encyclopaedic, but effort has gone into covering the major styles – and the not-so-major ones – at a fair price point; for spendier options, look to the ‘chef’s cellar’ collection.
Dining Information:
Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Credit card required, Deposit required, Pre-payment required
4 The Polygon, Clapham SW4 0JG
020 7622 1199
