Theo Randall at the InterContinental
Mayfair, London
A Park Lane institution, this long-running Italian restaurant has settled into a very nice groove. Found on the ground floor of the InterContinental Hotel, it may occupy a windowless space that can lack atmosphere, but the room itself is capacious and decorated with modern touches: a cosy bar area, modish grey-green leather banquettes, pale coffee-cream leather chairs, solid wood tables. Thankfully, there is nothing humdrum about the food, especially the regional menus featuring indigenous produce and local specialities. Theo Randall’s cooking has a clean, fresh feel to it. He buys well and puts ingredients (rather than his own ego) to the fore. Prices are moderate (given the swanky location) and the set lunch may be the best value in town. Fresh tones and understatement abound, whether in a dish of soft, creamy burrata teamed with red and yellow tomatoes, grilled Delica squash and a topping of sourdough breadcrumbs, or a lovely piece of pan-roasted sea bass fillet served with datterini tomatoes, capers and Taggiasche olives, Swiss chard and slow-roasted Sicilian red peppers. Top-class pasta is one of the star turns, perhaps ‘heavenly’ handmade pappardelle with a flavoursome ragù of beef slow-cooked in Chianti. Ancillaries and sides are no afterthought, whether a bruschetta studded with San Marzano tomatoes or moreish zucchini fritti, while dessert could bring a delicate, citrussy Amalfi lemon tart paired with a dollop of crème fraîche. Wines, mostly from Italy, carry hefty premiums but there are 27 options by the glass (from £8).
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly
InterContinental London Hotel, 1 Hamilton Place, Mayfair W1J 7QY
020 7318 8747
