The White Horse
Churton, Cheshire
Located in a pretty village near Chester, this offering from the Elite Bistro group looks like a blueprint for the future. The amalgamation of bistro and pub is not altogether original but Gary Usher has done it with ease and confidence. Success is based on a sensitive renovation of a fine, free-standing old hostelry, an intelligent approach to menu construction, astute sourcing and an admirable degree of support from the local community. It's a pleasing spot, spacious and comfortable, the soft colours enlivened by colourful food paintings and sparkling light fittings, with a large conservatory opening up the traditional dining area and a garden for fine-weather eating and drinking. The sensibly short menu holds few surprises but has enough voguish items and traditional favourites to please everyone. The main question everyone asks is: 'What the heck are beer-battered frickles?' To their credit, the charming, well-trained staff are always enthusiastic when describing these deep-fried gherkins, perhaps the most popular bar snack. Things on toast have their own listing (mackerel pâté with pickled radishes), while small plates might include excellent soy- and gochujang-glazed chicken wings, meaty and tender with lively but unobtrusive spicing and just enough pickled ginger, chilli and spring onion to perk up the taste buds. Main courses range from chargrill choices such as piri-piri chicken with baby gem, sour cream and skinny fries to plaice fillet with creamy peas and lettuce, smoked pancetta, ratte potatoes and spinach. Our curried lamb pie (served with sticky cumin carrot, green tomato and broad bean chutney and triple-cooked chips) had good crisp pastry and an intriguing filling of pulled lamb, chickpeas and green leaves. Puddings satisfy: a sticky banana loaf with butterscotch sauce, perhaps, or honeycomb ice cream with dark chocolate sauce and a wedge of honeycomb – a grown-up interpretation of a Crunchie bar. Sunday lunches are praised, and there are reasonably priced wines, cask ales and cocktails too.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly
Chester Road, Churton, Cheshire CH3 6LA
01829 272200
