The Vineyard
Newbury, Berkshire
Opulence is apparent from the moment you approach this impressive and well-proportioned 18th-century former hunting lodge down its manicured gravel driveway. The large split-level dining area features a domed skylight, stately chandelier, large picture windows and a notable display of original artworks on the walls. The hotel-restaurant feel, accentuated by background easy-listening jazz, is more apparent if the place is sparsely populated. Readers have been impressed by the ‘creativity and execution of each dish’, and Ritz-trained executive chef Tom Scade’s talent for presentation was also obvious during our visit. Every item was a beautiful composition, starting with an exquisite cep tart where leaf-like slices of the mushroom had been patiently placed over a creamy filling of pecorino and walnut, with a jumble of sautéed girolles at the base – an autumnal treat. Equally attractive was a long, thin slice of Berkshire game pie, the meaty chunks topped with rich jelly and accompanied by a perky pickled walnut and a fruity Cumberland relish. Main courses were also attuned to the season: partridge en croûte featured delectable pastry well-packed with flavourful fowl, plus truffle sauce (poured over at table) and shredded savoy cabbage completing a highly successful assembly. And though a piece of meaty brill could have been more succulent, its accompanying mussels were tender and plump, their flavour accentuated by a punchy mussel and leek sauce. A side order of green vegetables would have been a handy addition, and most people might want to order some carbs too (buttered new potatoes were spot-on). Desserts are also a feast for the eyes, including a picture-perfect slice of creamy custard tart matched with roasted black fig and blackberries. There’s also the option of a five-course tasting menu. Owner Sir Peter Michael has his own winery and several vineyards spread across California, and the hotel’s cellar is exceptional with 30,000 bottles, 3,000 bins and more than 50 available by the glass – look for the section headed ‘our home brew’ for a taste of his own viticulture.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Credit card required
Stockcross, Newbury, Berkshire RG20 8JU
01635 528770
