The Silver Birch
Chiswick, London
From its look, feel, ambience and pricing, there's little to suggest that this high-street restaurant is anything other than a decent independent local (in an area dominated by chains). The room itself, part bare brick with exposed aircon ducts, has a vaguely industrial feel, enhanced by the glimpsed kitchen behind picture windows at the back. A menu of sensible length puts much emphasis on provenance – cod from Shetland, scallops from Mull, tomatoes from the Isle of Wight – and with gentle jazzy pop playing in the background, it all seems quite pleasant and low-key. It's only when the food starts to arrive that you realise the burst of originality that new chef Nathan Cornwell has brought to the place. With plenty of top-end experience under his belt (including the past four years at The Barn at Moor Hall in Lancashire), he has set the bar very high. First comes seriously good sourdough bread with brilliantly green lovage butter, followed by an array of perfect little nibbles ranging from crispy pork belly and a complicated crab mousse to marinated sea trout with glistening pops of its roe and a mini blue cheese and Parmesan canapé – each intensely flavourful and texturally different. A beautifully presented starter of 'ex-dairy' beef tartare revels in its unadulterated meatiness, while duck ragoût, served wittily on turnip spaghetti, is given crunch with a dusting of grated, crispy skin. Lamb is served very pink and tender, alongside a scattering of baby girolles, wild garlic and a crispy sweetbread as accompaniments, while delicate butter-poached plaice is enhanced with a clever deconstruction of a tartare sauce. To finish, expect satisfyingly punchy sweetness from a brown-butter chocolate délice with milk sorbet and caramelised white chocolate, as well as a whimsical Victoria plum, brown sugar and ginger tartlet. Staff are friendly and matter-of-fact. The wine list is very reasonable, with lots of choice by the glass and carafe.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Family friendly
142 Chiswick High Road, Chiswick W4 1PU
020 8159 7176
