The Man Behind The Curtain
Leeds, West Yorkshire
*What was The Man Behind The Curtain has been reconfigured as a new concept called Psycho Sandbar. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
The basement setting, underneath Flannels clothing store, is very cool and sets an edgy monochrome tone. A low ceiling, pillars and concrete walls exude something of a Bond villain lair. The floor is black marble-effect tile, mirrored pillars and walls are enjoyably disorienting, and low-slung pendant lighting over each table creates atmospheric orbs of light through the room. This will be a restaurant experience, and then some. Michael O'Hare's cooking is full of striking visual dazzlement, its power to astonish beginning before it even hits the palate: first up is an ovoid cup of foamed Jersey Royals with sour cream and vanilla, topped with lemon zest and caviar, an explosion of serious flavour. A single Dénia red prawn sits on a black ceramic telephone, in homage to Dalí's lobster, gently incandescent with tikka spices. (What next? Dalí also painted a telephone with a snail on it – we're just saying.) Another exquisite seafood dish sees marinated raw scallop and lobster served in a nam jim bisque, electrified with orange, lime and chilli. By the time the principal dishes of the tasting menu arrive, top gear is engaged: the beautiful cod on its drift of inky-black potato with pickled onion juice and baby cabbage, and then the squab pigeon in rhubarb and hoisin, accompanied by an oblate yaki onigiri (grilled rice ball). Nor does the invention falter at dessert, when lavender-scented Valrhona Manjari 64% chocolate ganache turns up, under a silver-sprayed wavy chocolate tuile. The servers spoon on some warm potato foam with vanilla, which melts the chocolate, and scatter over little potato puffs covered in bright pink beetroot-vinegar powder. Better than crisps and chocolate in front of the telly. Yes, it all costs but, in the context, the lunch taster in particular is good value for the theatrical fun and the memorable taste sensations that come your way. A very authoritative wine list has been compiled, but the wine pairings are inspired, leading off with Krug Champagne, and perhaps taking in caviar gin, Trimbach Riesling and a mature Morgon.
Dining Information:
Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Credit card required, Pre-payment required
68-78 Vicar Lane, Leeds, West Yorkshire LS1 7JH
0113 243 2376
