The Gingerman
Brighton, East Sussex
This is where it all began for chef and entrepreneur Ben McKellar. Since 1998, The Gingerman has gently evolved and is now part of group that has grown to include a country pub, an urban pub with rooms, and the trendy Flint House with it's 'sharing plate' ethos. Gingerman still has that neighbourhood feel, with buttoned leather banquettes along one wall, exposed brick walls and a menu that always seem to punch above its weight. How about roasted veal sweetbread with mint and dashi consommé? The fixed-price carte (two or three courses) makes good use of regional ingredients and has moved with the times. Heritage tomatoes might go into a gazpacho with Devon crab and crumbly, sharp Sussex Medita cheese, while Loch Duart salmon is given the confit treatment with a fragrant hit of elderflower. Among main courses, seafood gets a good showing (pan-roasted stone bass with coco beans and tempura oyster, maybe), and Southdown lamb is a regular (loin and confit belly with almonds and olives). Dark chocolate stars in a creative dessert with Kahlua and espresso, alongside a morello cherry sorbet. There's also a tasting menu with optional (and good-value) wine pairings, and the veggie version is no afterthought. Bottle prices kick off at £29 for a Languedoc-Roussillon, although the list covers the globe and also delivers appealing options by the glass and carafe.
