The George at Alstonefield
Alstonefield, Staffordshire
With its cosy rooms and proper fires, this old coaching inn gives little hint of serious intent in the kitchen. But take one look at the menu and all the signs are there. Jordan Hemsil was previously head chef for Adam Reid at The French in Manchester and readers have been full of praise for his ‘real treat/special occasion’ cooking. Choose from a three-course tasting menu at lunch or nine courses for dinner. Standouts have included an ‘utterly delicious’ essence of salt-baked celeriac sitting on ‘teeny weeny’ courgette balls with a little heat from a jug of Thai broth poured on top. A confidently focused main course of ‘flavour-packed’ venison loin with pear purée, savoy cabbage leaf and braised barley avoided over-complexity in favour of a direct ingredients-led approach, likewise a medallion of compressed cod on artichoke purée with shaved raw mushroom ('very subtle and delicious’). For dessert, a crisp little tart filled with vanilla parfait and topped with a ‘deeply grown-up’ chocolate crémeux and salted blueberries proved to be an ‘excellent few mouthfuls’ and went perfectly with a glass of Haut-Médoc from Château Citran. Curiously, the optional cheese course, a square of stout cake topped with melted Baron Bigod and served with a drizzle of local honey and strips of apple proved to be the sweeter option at inspection. The short, well-annotated wine list offers a good choice by the glass. Two letting rooms are 'upcoming', according to the owners.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, No background music, Wheelchair access, Credit card required
1 Church Lane, Alstonefield, Staffordshire DE6 2FX
01335 310205
