The Dew Drop Inn
Hurley, Berkshire
*Simon Bonwick's son Charlie has been promoted to chef de cuisine and has taken over the day-to-day running of the pub, although Simon continues as chef-patron.*
It’s hard to imagine a more idyllic setting. This enchanting little 16th-century pub, tucked away in a woodland clearing down secluded Honey Lane, was rescued from closure and reopened in January 2023 by Deborah Bonwick and her husband, renowned chef Simon (ex-The Crown, at nearby Burchett's Green). The stunning location, terrace and large beer garden are reasons enough to call in during the warmer months – perhaps for a pint of Brakspear’s ale after a walk along the nearby bridle path – but the pub’s interior, with wood panelling, sunshine-yellow walls, scrubbed floorboards and a small restaurant adjacent to the bar (bare beams, open fireplace) make it a cosy destination throughout the year. The food (a mix of British and Gallic influences) also has many local admirers, with Bonwick’s short, ‘quirky’ seasonal menu perhaps kicking off with French country pâté (pork and wood pigeon), made nutty with Puy lentils and served with pickles, a sliver of crisp bacon and onion relish. Three little bread rolls, fresh from the oven and provided gratis, give further indication of the kitchen's talent. Cured seafood, maybe smoked eel with beetroot and horseradish, is another forte. To follow, ‘fish with the flavours of India’ is a handsome assembly of brilliant white sea bass fillet atop spinach and a lightly spiced patty of lentils and potato (the only discernible Subcontinental influence). A side dish of freshly cooked vegetables is included. Pies ‘filled to the brim’ attract praise, and only the hot weather deterred us from ordering the local rabbit and gammon version (‘braised for ages,' according to the menu). A soundtrack of laid-back jazz, plus comforting puds such as a dense, creamy St Marcellin cheesecake matched with tangy cherry compôte and vanilla ice cream, add to the relaxing vibe – as does ‘very personal’ and attentive service (often from Deborah Bonwick herself). Another bonus is the inviting wine list, which incorporates plenty of by-the-glass options as well as a selection of vintage heavyweights. ‘We always leave feeling better for it,’ commented one regular – though the bill could make a drop-in visit an eye-opening experience.
Dining Information:
Separate bar, No background music, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required, Deposit required
Honey Lane, Pudding Hill, Hurley, Berkshire SL6 6RB
01628 829293
