The Clockspire
Milborne Port, Dorset
‘This is easily one of the grandest restaurants I’ve ever visited,’ observed an inspector. It is hard not to be seduced by the vast gabled building, built in 1864 as a school, and crowned by a clock tower from which the establishment takes its name. Architecturally it is rich in detail, with huge windows and soaring raftered ceilings: the overall effect is 'visually incredible and totally unique'. Few restaurants integrate as effectively with their surroundings, and the place is an asset to the area, with everyone dressed up to the nines for a proper posh night out. Yet, with no tablecloths or tasting menus, the approach can be seem like a casual take on high-end dining. Most people find Luke Sutton’s cooking intelligently judged, as in dishes such as a tranche of wild bass with properly crisp skin and silky flesh cooked just right, set on a tomato-based stew of white beans, chorizo and diced vegetables, or an individual treacle tart with a nice gooey, lemon-heavy filling and a punchy miso caramel underneath. There's also the option of a good-value two- or three-course set menu at lunchtime and early evening. Slightly formal but super-efficient service makes everyone 'feel a bit special,' concluded one visitor. The 200-bin global wine list offers ample value, starting at £20 and rising to about £400; most bottles hover around the £30 to £100 mark and wines by the glass start at £5.
Dining Information:
Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly
Gainsborough, Milborne Port, Dorset DT9 5BA
01963 251458
