The Boat Inn

Lichfield, Staffordshire

Rating: Good

Modern British | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Very Good

Deliciousness: Good

Warmth: Very Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

Though the address says Lichfield, this white roadside pub is about five miles away, not far from the M6 toll. A spirited foodie destination, attractive, modernised and extended, it’s now one of a new breed of country restaurants. It helps that it has a chef-proprietor with experience at the fancy end of the culinary spectrum – Restaurant Story, Eleven Madison Park – but that is not to say Liam Dillon is cooking haute cuisine, not a bit of it. This place is all about classy renditions of 'absolutely delicious' food everyone wants to eat. Knowledgeably sourced, often local produce (some grown in the polytunnel in the Boat's garden) is the jumping-off point for forthright seasonal dishes with the three-course carte and four- or six-course tasters striking many alluring modern British chords. A pink, tender breast of Anjou pigeon, perhaps, served with pickled blueberries, yeasted cauliflower, a mini sausage of the leg wrapped in home-grown chard and petals of baby onion adding acidity, or a perfectly cooked piece of cod with celeriac purée, a deep-fried potato ring and dollop of Avruga caviar. It all ends on a high with a well-made chocolate parfait, nuggets of white chocolate ‘Aero’ and a deeply flavoured malt ice cream topped with a milk crisp. Dishes are flagged with intelligent wine pairings, but do seek the sommelier’s guidance as the full list ventures beyond the usual suspects, focussing on the organic and sustainable. Pub credentials are maintained via a large outdoor terrace/beer garden that really comes into its own on a sunny day. Here a separate terrace menu offers platters of charcuterie and cheeses, chicken wings, bowls of chips, and the kitchen's superb spelt bread.

Rating: Good

Modern British | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Very Good

Deliciousness: Good

Warmth: Very Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

Dining Information:

Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required, Deposit required

Walsall Road, Muckley Corner, Lichfield, Staffordshire WS14 0BU

01543 361692