Suissi Vegan Kitchen
Glasgow, Strathclyde
The simple shop frontage and low-key location don’t do justice to the warm welcome and vibrant dishes offered at this neighbourhood restaurant, which gives pan-Asian cuisine an intriguing vegan spin. Suissi is a full-on family affair with Malaysian-born Mama Lim sharing her home-style plant-based creations, while assorted members of her next generation foster a cheery informality out front. Lim's evangelistic commitment to natural ingredients rightly eschews the common flavour shortcuts of refined sugars, MSG and the like. A smattering of starters might range from crisp pickles with explosive pops of pineapple punctuating a punchy achar (peanut and chilli sauce) to shimeji mushrooms spiked with salt and chilli, so crisp and utterly moreish that another portion follows in quick succession. Larger appetites will be sated with soupy noodle combinations deploying a wide variety of traditional broth and stock bases, each one handmade from scratch. Mushrooms also star in other assured dishes, from an intense 'lion's mane' rendang to a 'king trumpet' katsu in a curried sauce based on apples and carrots. Sweet finishes embrace a homemade frozen ‘scoop of the week’ or pisang goreng (Indonesian banana fritters). Mainstream Asian beers and a short set of vinous staples underpin an idiosyncratic cocktail list melding modern mixology with oriental themes (try the Sakura Fizz, which combines floral and fruity flavours to recreate Japanese cherry blossom season in a glass). The place itself has a certain make-do-and-mend studenty optimism – slightly shambolic with an eclectic but happy jumble of treasured odds and ends. Mind you, the lively, eclectic crowd jostling for the 30-odd covers are here for the food, not the interior design.
Dining Information:
Wheelchair access, Dog friendly
494 Dumbarton Road, Partick, Glasgow, Strathclyde G11 6SL
0141 339 9331
