Slowburn
Walthamstow, London
Fitting seamlessly inside 'London's only craft jean makers' on Blackhorse Lane, Slowburn turns a working industrial backdrop into something quite informal and quite fetching. Walk past rolls of denim and lines of machinery to reach the restaurant tables laid out at the back of the site; expansive windows allow in dappled daylight during the day, while candlelight and hanging light bulbs create a warm, cosy vibe in the evening. There are also trestle tables out front for alfresco socialising on sunny days. Dining among denim is a novel proposition, but the kitchen backs up its promise with a good-value, vegetable-led menu tuned to the seasons. When we visited it was heralding the arrival of autumn while retaining some fresher ideas reflecting the warmer weather. Depth of flavour and proper savouriness are chef/owner Chavdar Todorov's calling cards, from confit artichoke 'flower' with romesco sauce or black-bean gyoza tacos fired up with a zippy coriander salsa to a main course of Slowburn smoked chicken that was almost impossibly moist and definitely worthy of the name – thanks to a special spicy rub. Moreish roast baby potatoes received similar treatment, while broccoli was partnered by a punchy peanut, sweet chilli and mustard sauce. To finish, a terrific rendition of apple tarte tatin also warmed us with its autumnal notes, although a rum/pineapple riff with lemongrass caramel sounded exotically enticing. The well-spread wine list includes some useful by-the-glass options for under £10.
Dining Information:
Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required
114b Blackhorse Lane, Walthamstow E17 6AA
07541 365064
