Rules
Covent Garden, London
'As befitting the capital’s oldest restaurant, nothing has changed since we were last here,' noted one visitor. The walls are so covered with long-gone actors and artists that there’s little room for anyone new; the large portrait of the late Queen Elizabeth II seems almost anachronistic in its modernity. The tables are swathed in white linen, the decor is Regency red and gold, and the staff are formal and efficient. Rules owns an estate up north and the kitchen really comes into its own when game is in season (expect anything from grouse to woodcock, classically served), but there’s plenty to draw those with hearty appetites the rest of the year. Steak and kidney pudding (complete with suet crust) is a perennial favourite, likewise chicken leek and mushroom pie, while a dish of deeply flavoured, slow-cooked pork cheek with black pudding, roast apple purée and Puy lentil is a winner, too. Start with duck rillettes accompanied by a green salad and cornichons or ever-popular potted shrimps, and don't ignore the pudding menu – a roll call of all that Britain has done best for centuries. How about a steamed syrup sponge with a dollop of double cream and a jug of custard poured at table, or apple and pear crumble, or sticky toffee pud? Otherwise, there's napkin-wrapped Stilton (served with the appropriate spoon) or Welsh rarebit for diehard traditionalists. All of this comes at a price, especially when you factor in a (mostly French) wine list with mark-ups to match. But, in the words of one devotee: 'It makes for an unforgettable meal and one that should be on any London diner's bucket list.'
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar
35 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden WC2E 7LB
020 7836 5314
