Rogues.
Hackney, London
Zac Whittle and Freddie Sheen met over the stoves at Galvin La Chapelle in the City but decided to break free and go rogue with their own indie venture. Visitors can expect a small, noisy industrial space, with stripped-back walls, bare concrete and pendant lighting; comfort levels are relatively low, ‘but that’s modern Hackney restaurants for you,’ quipped one reader. The cooking is also a far cry from the French elegance of La Chapelle; instead, it’s all about free-ranging natural flavours – but with one eye on the seasons. The menu is scrawled on a big blackboard – you can swing by for a couple of dishes, but its pays to invest in the full works. First up is an array of palate-stimulating snacks ranging from a squat lobster tart to crispy cod skin with smoked roe and lemon. After that a ‘texturally wonderful’ deep-fried Kyiv prepared with a frog’s leg rather than chicken and served with a dollop of wild garlic mayo. There’s more wild garlic in a dish of perfectly cooked sea trout, while seasonal asparagus is given an ‘umami punch’ with mushroom XO sauce. Bigger dishes also shine – for example, a plate of Lavinton lamb (from Lincolnshire) classically paired with buttery fresh peas and the ’salivating saltiness’ of oyster butter sauce. Then it’s back to childhood for a strawberry and elderflower trifle, sweet yet sharp, with the added ‘snap, crackle and pop’ of Rice Krispies. 'Staff are passionate, engaging... and remember your name,' noted one satisfied customer. Drinks include a short but ever-changing selection of natural and classic wines, plus a few cocktails.
