Restaurant Sat Bains
Nottingham, Nottinghamshire
An oasis off Nottingham’s thundering A52 ring road, Sat and Amanda Bains’ singular restaurant with rooms reminded one inspector of a smart Burgundian auberge (despite the electricity pylons and industrial estate nearby). Since arriving in 2002, the couple have invested much time and effort here, while a major refurb in 2022 saw the reception area expanded and the number of covers in the earthy-toned dining room reduced – allowing space for a new sommelier’s station; in addition a kitchen bench and chef's table offer the chance to sit closer to the chefs at work. Above all, the ambience is more relaxed and less reverential than at some of Bains’ fine-dining peers – thanks to a dedicated team of professional staff who go the extra mile to ensure diners get the maximum enjoyment from their visit. In the kitchen, meanwhile, Bains continues to steer his own highly distinctive course. From the introductory ‘interplay of five tastes’ to the rose-scented geranium ice cream covered with candy floss on a stick, his cooking references the defining motifs of modern cuisine, taking in everything from Escoffier’s rich dark saucing to on-trend pickling, foraging and smoking. Occasionally a dish seems ill-conceived, or its impact gets lost in translation, but a wintertime inspection proved that head chef John Freeman and his team can deliver seriously insightful food with real confidence and panache. Standouts ranged from an utterly moreish new potato, charred over hot embers and topped with a creamy whey sauce, pickled onions, a dusting of Périgord truffle, a dollop of N25 caviar and some crispy potatoes to a superb, light tart of aged venison with an umami hit from ceps, lichen and pine. A clever cheese course involving a choux bun filled with Baron Bigod, thinly sliced Granny Smith apple, pear gel and shaved black truffle added yet more excitement, while a brilliant ‘crossover’ from savoury to sweet pitched the pungent heat of a silky horseradish panna cotta against the texture and iciness of a Granny Smith granita. Best of all, a layering of chocolate ‘soil’, dark chocolate sponge and various riffs on parsnip (sponge, crisp, ice cream), all finished with white chocolate, amaretto cherry and droplets of aged balsamic, showcased the exceptional skills required to bring a host of disparate components together. Like everything else here, the wine list is the result of careful thinking, foresight and hard work: the full line-up is packed with interesting bottles from across the globe, easily accessible by price or region. At £45, a LDN Cru 'Baker Street' Bacchus 2021 represents the bottom line, and there are more than 40 by the glass.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Parking, Credit card required
Lenton Lane, Nottingham, Nottinghamshire NG7 2SA
0115 986 6566
