Paris House

Woburn, Bedfordshire

Rating: Very Good

Modern British | Restaurant

Have you ever seen a building you like the look of in a foreign city? Of course you have. Have you ever imagined dismantling it and rebuilding it in your back garden? Thought not. That's what happened in the 1870s when the 9th Duke of Bedford attended the Paris International Exhibition. But then we are talking about a Duke and his garden was the Woburn Estate. And here Paris House stands today, amid a 22-acre deer park, an ornate black-and-white house of inherent charm. It's a bewitching setting for a restaurant. An elegant and gently contemporary interior brings everything up to date, as does the kitchen's output of inventive and 'beautifully presented' food delivered in the tasting menu format. There are options covering most dietary requirements if needed, and chef/owner Phil Fanning's attention to detail is evident from amuse-bouche to dessert. Favoured modern techniques are used to great effect in dishes such as an opening salvo called 'coronation crab', with curried brown crab mayonnaise and pickled apple providing contemporary additions to a classic seafood starter. Elsewhere, smoked beetroot and confit heirloom carrots get top billing in a dish with pork rillettes, while lettuce receives the fermentation treatment in a creative 'lamb Caesar' riff (with wild garlic and anchovy). Fish might be sea bass with a mussel and black olive ragù, before a duo of desserts promises the likes of strawberries, white chocolate and marshmallows. Friendly, switched-on staff invariably hit their mark. To drink, there's a wine flight at £75 per person for six glasses (one per course), which is a pretty good option when you consider that bottle prices on the full list start at £42.

Rating: Very Good

Modern British | Restaurant

Dining Information:

Private dining room, Parking, Credit card required

London Road, Woburn Park, Woburn, Bedfordshire MK17 9QP

01525 290692