Paradise
Soho, London
* Paradise is closing temporarily in May for a major revamp: expect lots of new design flourishes and a more ambitious menu (including a new six-course set deal in the evenings). Watch for a new review coming soon.*
Inspired by childhood memories of Sri Lanka, Dom Fernando opened Paradise in 2021, and this being in Soho, visitors can expect a small, noisy space with loud music, counter and booth seating, and a modish industrial look of unpolished concrete and pendant lighting. It's a great platform for eclectic cooking that fuses Indian, Thai and Malay flavours ('hot, sweet and sour') and everything revolves around sharing plates, with notable British produce providing the kitchen's building blocks. First up, a braised hogget roll paired with chilli ketchup packs a real punch, likewise a sweet and sticky aubergine, pickled with vinegar and jaggery. Sri Lanka's island cuisine is synonymous with seafood, and the star at our inspection was a curry of seared Scottish king scallops topped with Devon crab and rambutan acharu grains; hoppers or parathas with smoked sambal butter are perfect for mopping up the tasty sauces. For determined meat eaters, there might be grilled sirloin steak (marinated in soy and Sri Lankan arrack) served with Jaffna spiced peanut and wagyu bone-marrow curry, plus fermented celeriac. Spice levels are dialled up high and they don't serve any soothing desserts, so cool down with exotic cocktails and wines from £30. Service comes with 'warmth and smiles'.
