No 27 The Terrace
St Ives, Cornwall
No 27 is a guesthouse ('and then some') in a Georgian residence on the road of the same name, leading up and away from St Ives on a rise above the railway station and Porthminster Beach. A heavy black door to the right leads into a distinctly jazzed-up interior, with a dining room looking over the bay below. Pictures of seascapes crowd the walls, at one end an oil of a white-dressed Edwardian lady with a dog. Grant Nethercott, formerly of Alba in the old lifeboat house, mans the stoves here, delivering a tasting menu and carte of essentially simple, but well-constructed dishes that aim to please rather than startle. A serving of cured sea trout is prettily adorned with salmon roe, tapenade, avocado purée and cucumber, or there might be a seafood spin on cannelloni made with lobster bolognese. Meat could be West Country beef fillet in bordelaise sauce with rösti and hispi cabbage, while monkfish gains from its accompanying cassoulet-like stew of white beans, tomato and bacon. To finish, there could be a small cube of wonderful sticky toffee pudding with cold boozy prunes and clotted cream, or perhaps a wodge of Cornwall's Helford Blue with truffle honey and sourdough crisps. South African wines are a feature of the short list.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Credit card required
27 The Terrace, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 2BP
01736 797450
