New Coast Kitchen
Croyde, Devon
The beaches of Saunton Sands, Croyde and Woolacombe make up what has become a surfers’ paradise on this stretch of the north Devon coast, and committed surfers are here year-round. However, the winding lanes and thatched villages swell with holidaymakers in summer, often looking for something beyond pub grub – which the young team at New Coast Kitchen are more than happy to provide. The outside seating area is popular at lunch when a small-plates menu is offered, while the dark walls of this smart little restaurant abound with hanging greenery, big mirrors, spotlights and low-hanging industrial lamps. You’re at the seaside, so kick off with some Porthilly oysters, perhaps served with a delicate apple pickle and a dash of chilli oil or hot in tempura batter with a wasabi tartare sauce. There’s more seafood on the menu, including a superb scallop ceviche in its shell with a mild roquito pepper mayonnaise, sea vegetables and a refreshing tomato granita (a clever addition). Hake appears regularly (served with a mussel mousse and miso butter sauce when we visited), while wild sea bass is a treat whenever it's landed – perhaps partnered by Fowey scallops, herring roe and citrus-marinated fennel. In the mood for meat? Indulge in generously sliced saddle of lamb, served pink with a tender roast short rib alongside accompaniments of courgette and basil purée and baby turnip. At dessert, you might opt for the prettily presented vanilla cheesecake with lovely honey and lavender ice cream or chocolate ganache with poached cherries. An interesting, fairly priced wine list includes several organic and less familiar bottles including a Kardos Dry Furmint (from Hungary) and a Yamanashi Koshu sur lie (from Japan); there's also a selection of elegant cocktails.
