Mriya Neo Bistro
Earl's Court, London
There is no backstory in London hospitality more aligned to a major news item on the world stage. Chef Yurii Kovryzhenko and partner Olga Tsybytovska were here on vacation when Russia invaded their homeland and they were forced to stay put. With help from chefs such as Jason Atherton and Tom Sellers they were able to raise funds for humanitarian aid as well as launching their own restaurant, which opened in Earl's Court in September 2022. Mriya, which translates as 'dream', is an Ukrainian neo-bistro, housed in a cosy space with an open-plan kitchen, white-clothed tables, white bench seats strewn with rugs and a partially covered outdoor space. It's a relaxed place, manned by cheery and helpful staff who are themselves refugees. But what to eat here? There is considerable skill in the kitchen and the menu showcases well-known Ukrainian dishes – familiar classics such as a comforting borscht with diced potato accompanied by homemade pampushky bread drizzled with olive oil and parsley or chicken Kyiv served with mash and peas. Highlights at inspection were tasty varenyky dumplings filled with minced chicken, topped with sour cream, crisp deep-fried onions and a splash of smoked oil, as well as two large 'Golubtsi'-style courgette flowers stuffed with minced beef, buckwheat and raisins, served with a tangy and creamy tomato sauce, again lifted by a little smoked oil. Another highlight was tender beef rolled with prunes offset by buckwheat grains and a creamy mushroom sauce. Finish in patriotic style with Kyiv cake (a national favourite) made with meringue, hazelnut and white chocolate. To drink, Ukrainian cocktails and vodkas supplement a predominately Ukrainian wine list, with almost everything available by the glass.
