Lupo
Prestwich, Greater Manchester
If you’re a newcomer to the heavenly delight that is real burrata, then head to Lupo. Outside of Puglia, you’re unlikely to find anything so lusciously ethereal as that imported weekly to the favoured few of north Manchester by Roman-born barista-cum-baker Nico Pasquali. Obscure is the keyword: his tiny pasticceria and coffee shop has a touch of the speakeasy about it and, given its zero footfall on a small industrial estate, it’s pretty miraculous so many people are in the know. The place defies categorisation – caffe, coffee bar, wine bar, restaurant, takeaway and more – but it is stamped with Nino's hospitable personality. His loyal customers have followed him from various city locations, unwilling to forgo fluffy multi-flavoured doughnuts, perfect sourdough pizzas on Friday and Saturday (4pm-8pm), feather-light arancini, homemade tiramisu and arguably the best espresso in Manchester – don’t ask for a flat white. The setting is simple, with a lively, rough-and-ready vibe from the painted breeze blocks and red-and-white check plastic cloths to the great soundtrack. There are just two homely, seasonal, inexpensive and weekly changing lunch dishes, perhaps pasta with radicchio, Gorgonzola and walnuts (or with a sauce of fennel sausage, peas and mushrooms) and 'exceptional' white lasagne with courgettes, aubergine, pepper and béchamel, described as 'creamy, packed with layers of fresh pasta... dotted with little jewels of vegetables'. There are delicate daily pastries too, and a small selection of well-curated deli produce such as guanciale from Norcia (essential for carbonara), punchy pecorino and superb tinned tuna. Nino is fastidious about sourcing: even the rocket comes from Italy. Crisp and peppery, it is a revelation. Check the opening times, then come early – they sell out of the daily selection before you can say AS Roma.
