Lorne
Victoria, London
‘An unassuming restaurant in an unassuming location,' noted one reader. Katie Exton is now the sole proprietor, with Graham Brown (who has worked at Lorne since opening) promoted to head chef – although you won't notice any change when you walk into the dining room. Simply furnished with Scandi-style, pale wood furnishings, orange leather booths, potted plants and colourful modern art on white walls, it feels calm and relaxing. As for the food, flavours are fresh and distinct. A recent lunch kicked off with a tartare of sea bream partnered with diced kohlrabi, cucumber, salty dashi jelly and a topping of crunchy beer batter, ahead of thinly sliced veal rump teamed with fondant potatoes, courgettes, goat's curd and Parmesan. To finish, a chocolate crémeux, partnered with milk ice cream, cocoa nibs and a coating of warm chocolate foam ‘looked like a splodge but tasted of heaven’. Warm, smiley service goes out of its way to make sure everyone has a pleasurable time. The wine list (from £28) is one of the more interesting and moderately priced in town, featuring new discoveries as well as more established labels. Katie Exton is a highly regarded sommelier, so seeking advice from her can bring rewards. 'Such a lovely place, it's difficult not to stay here all day,' concluded one happy diner.
