Lisboeta
Fitzrovia, London
‘What sets Lisboeta apart is its sophisticated delivery of some of Lisbon's culinary hits,’ noted a well-travelled inspector. This offering from much-feted Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes (Viajante, Taberno do Mercado, Chiltern Firehouse) is yet another billet-doux to his home city and his most ambitious project to date. Occupying a three-storey townhouse on Charlotte Street, Lisboeta’s main space comprises a long limestone counter with brown leather seating, stylish shelving made from wood salvaged from tram cars, and a large open-plan kitchen as the centrepiece. The mood is lively, relaxed and noisy, helped along by cheerful, motivated staff – although prices are more top-end Fitzrovia than ‘wallet-friendly’ Lisbon. The menu highlights native produce, from snacks of crumbly vindalho empada (a Goan-spiced mini pork pie) to stunning grilled carabineiro (giant deep-sea scarlet prawns served slightly rare with piri-piri) or cured amberjack from the Azores (paired with orange and onion). Other dazzlers from the line-up of small plates (petiscos) and platters (tachos and travessas) have included classic bacalhau (salt cod) with caramelised onions and a dish of tender acorn-fed black pork (from Alentejo), served pink with a rich fermented red-pepper paste that had one recipient's taste buds ‘ziplining down the legendary seven hills of Lisbon’. For sheer controversial impact, however, nothing can trump the extraordinary abade de priscos – a sweet egg yolk and pork-fat custard with port-wine caramel that is guaranteed to ‘leave some diners squealing with delight and others reeling in disgust’. Make up your own mind. Lisboeta is now open for Sunday lunch, featuring a monthly rotating chef's special inspired by traditional Portuguese family feasts, while the wine list celebebrates native terroir with bottles helpfully arranged by colour and style (with a special selection from Niepoort).
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Counter seating
30 Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia W1T 2NG
020 3830 9888
