Launceston Place
South Kensington, London
It's easy to understand the immediate appeal of this elegant restaurant. The two quirkily laid-out dining rooms are formal yet intimate, decorated in pale grey and offset by white-clothed tables, brown leather chairs, dark wood flooring and striking abstract art. No wonder readers declare it 'a lovely place to revisit'. There’s also a touch of whimsy when it comes to ordering your food. A games board offers multiple choices: by removing pieces you reveal each named dish; just re-cover those items you don’t wish to have. As for the cooking, expect the same level of studied craft that earned Ben Murphy (now chef-patron) the award of National Chef of the Year 2022 from the Craft Guild of Chefs. We were pleased to note he has reined in most of his over-playful tendencies (food served on a miniature shopping trolley at a previous visit), and his output now feels more measured and confident without compromising his natural creative streak. Everything was on point at inspection. We kicked off with a trio of delightful miniature snacks, excellent sourdough with two flavoured butters (seaweed and red piquillo) and a cheeky twist on a British breakfast classic, featuring an egg with its top shaved off, filled with a custard of foie gras and truffle. After that, a terrific sequence of interesting tastes and textures spanned everything from a citrussy ceviche of stone bass with julienne of raw Granny Smith and radish, finished off with a kalamansi and coconut emulsion, to tender Ibérico pork shoulder served with rapidly charred salad leaves and artichoke, plus meat jus and perfect Pont Neuf potatoes. To conclude, it was hard to trump a glazed globe of dark chocolate and chestnut mousse paired with a milk sorbet and mandarin coulis. The ambience is convivial, helped along by conscientious and discreet service, while the enterprising global wine list (including some lesser-known names from Japan) also features some exceptional Champagnes and sparklers. Prices open at £40 and there are almost 30 options by the glass (from £9).
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Credit card required
1a Launceston Place, South Kensington W8 5RL
020 7937 6912
