Lake Road Kitchen

Ambleside, Cumbria

Rating: Exceptional

Modern European | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Exceptional

Uniqueness: Very Good

Deliciousness: Exceptional

Warmth: Exceptional

Strength of recommendation: Very Good

The fact that Lake Road Kitchen is barely noticeable from the street says a lot about this singular restaurant in touristy Ambleside. It’s all about subtlety and understatement – from the clean, contemporary Scandi-style interiors and the lack of adornment to the food itself. Many dishes look almost insignificant on the plate and everything is refined to its essence, deliberately eschewing most of the prevalent, fine-dining bells and whistles. Chef-owner James Cross is on a mission and is happy to share his passion, spending a lot of time chatting to customers, sharing recipes and demystifying his culinary techniques. Yes, this is a ‘proper food-lover’s venue’, and a highly personal one to boot. Daily changing menus (choose 8 or 12 ‘servings’) are testament to the chef’s love of prime produce, and the sheer level of craft, creativity and confidence is a wonder to behold – sometimes simple, sometimes extraordinarily complex, but always gelling cohesively. Home-churned butter made from local cream is an opening statement of intent: fermented and aged for 12 months until crystalline and umami-laden, it takes the ubiquitous spread to another level, pairing perfectly with the signature long-proven sourdough-style bread. Shetland monkfish is lightly brined, slow-smoked till translucent, then presented with burrata and spiced golden beets – an unconventional combination releasing sweet, smoky, spicy notes while still forefronting the fish. A congee of ‘six-hour rice’, slow-cooked beef shin and tendon takes comfort food to the highest level, while twice-brined Saddleback pork, rendered to perfection over fire and served with wild garlic ‘capers’, reminds you why properly reared pigs are worth seeking out. Elsewhere, you can reward yourself with an extra course of intensely beefy A5 Kagoshima wagyu – treated as reverently as it merits. Desserts are no less accomplished: a walnut gelato with Calvados caramel is silky and subtle, while a scarcely solid chocolate cake is an eye-rolling delight that stretches patisserie to the outer limits of structural integrity. To drink, wine pairing options are available, along with a short but well-judged list starting at £40. In short, a bold, uncompromising but intimate dining experience, delivered with insight and humility.

Rating: Exceptional

Modern European | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Exceptional

Uniqueness: Very Good

Deliciousness: Exceptional

Warmth: Exceptional

Strength of recommendation: Very Good

Dining Information:

Deposit required

Sussex House, Lake Road, Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 0AD

015394 22012