Imperial Treasure
St. James's, London
A well-travelled inspector who has eaten at the prestigious Singapore flagship of the 20-strong Imperial Treasure group reckons that this imposing Mayfair outpost is up there with the best. What was once a Victorian bank has been transformed into a contemporary space designed using natural materials – orange marble walls, brushed oak, stone flooring – while wood and onyx screens sub-divide the generous space and provide privacy, but at the expense of a lively vibe. The emphasis is on refined Cantonese cuisine, ambitions are sky high and prices are ‘severe’ – especially if you splurge on ‘live premium seafood’ such as Gillardeau oysters or Norwegian king crab. Highlights from one visit included an exquisite Beijing duck, as well as braised fish maw and Hokkaido sea cucumber with oyster sauce (‘a masterclass in texture’). Elsewhere, pristine ingredients are handled with precision, as in tender cubes of sautéed beef fillet with garlic crisps or Singapore chilli prawns (a twist on the famous crab version) with mantou bao – ‘perfect for mopping up all that spicy garlicky sauce’. Lunchtime dim sum are also out of the top drawer: try the crispy lobster beancurd roll, Ibérico pork char siu cheung fun or steamed king prawn dumpling with bamboo shoots. Service is attentive and informed. Not surprisingly, wines are geared towards the prestige end of the vinous spectrum.
