Heritage
Slaugham, West Sussex
Hopefully you won't have to ask for directions and attempt to tackle the pronunciation of this tiny village; let SatNav do the work and expect a genuine welcome from the tight-knit team. Over the road from the church, Matt Gillan has turned the old Chequers pub into a destination restaurant with rooms. There are still draught ales at the bar, and a handsome fire for the winter, and even a menu of trendy snacks along the lines of fried chicken thigh with kimchi dressing, but this ain't no boozer. The contemporary dining room has views over the countryside and, if the sun is out, a pre-dinner drink in the garden is a winning proposition (otherwise, a couple of bar areas do the job, including the 'steam-punk cocktail lounge'). Matt favours the tasting menu format, opening with seven courses in the evening including snacks, and with just a couple of decisions to be made – which of two fish courses to opt for, and whether to add in the Great British Menu-winning goat dish, aka The Herder. There's a lot of bang for your buck, multiple courses arriving at just the right pace, and although most plates are teeny tiny, it all makes sense by the time you reach the two equally diminutive desserts. It begins with a board of creative snacks, the pick of the bunch for one reader being the mackerel nigiri with puffed rice. Asian flavours thrive in a stuffed glazed chicken thigh with pickled kohlrabi and a 'gorgeously pungent' chicken broth, but a beetroot course misses the promised hit from its wasabi cream. Barbecued monkfish comes with a richly roasted tomato fondue, tender squid and a kick of heat from pickled ginger, while duck breast is cooked just-so and arrives with a duck-leg bhaji. That TV winner sees goat prepped four ways, with roasted pineapple providing the perfect foil, and charred marzipan perhaps a little so-so. Tonka-bean panna cotta is a highlight among the sweet courses, with pumpkin seeds an inspired addition for flavour and texture. Vegetarian tasting menus don't stint on invention either. The wine list opens with a fine selection of top Sussex fizz and serves up 30-plus tipples by the glass; bottle prices start at £26 for a South African Chenin Blanc.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Deposit required
The Chequers, Slaugham, West Sussex RH17 6AQ
01444 401102
