Elystan Street
Chelsea, London
Since teaming up in the late noughties, chef Phil Howard and restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas have rolled out a series of sophisticated yet informal neighbourhood eateries – and Elystan Street follows their blueprint to the letter. The mood is one of unbuttoned luxury, Chelsea style, with pared-back interiors, large monochrome prints, a mix of peach and grey seating and lots of natural light flooding in through large windows. ‘Hospitality’ is one of the keys to the success of this place, notes a reader – although locals are here to sample the kitchen’s masterful and cleverly nuanced modern food. Expect ‘seasonal dishes cooked with skill and precision’, overlaid with a perfect sense of balance and a true respect for ingredients. Highlights from one recent visit included ‘moreish’ hand-cut strozzapreti cooked in buttery chicken stock with a dressing of summer truffles and aged Parmesan, as well as a 'lovely looking' plate of sea bream, with perfectly crispy skin and a colourfully exotic mélange of baba ganoush, apricot harissa, a charred Padrón pepper and a drizzle of basil-infused olive oil. If meat is your preference, there might be tartare of English rose veal ahead of saddle of lamb served in sunny Mediterranean style with pesto-baked aubergine, roasted San Marzano tomatoes, garlic and balsamic. British and French cheeses are kept in tiptop condition, while ‘classy’ desserts might bring a millefeuille of raspberries with vanilla and lemon verbena cream – ‘a summer treat’. Ever-attentive staff spend ‘quality time with their guests’, which adds to the relaxed, informal vibe. Lunch is good value for the postcode, and the knowledgeably assembled wine list leans heavily towards Europe, with around 20 by-the-glass selections and bottles from £35.
