Eleanore
Edinburgh, Lothians
The fact that this tiny restaurant represents a massive upgrade for chefs Hamish McNeil and Moray Lamb will raise eyebrows among those who didn’t spend their various lockdowns in Edinburgh. Their previous spot – a minuscule fibreglass shed on nearby Portobello Promenade – became known for strikingly good seafood, flatbreads and other delights at a time when the only legal option was to eat off your knee, perched on the nearby sea wall. This new site previously played host to sibling eatery The Little Chartroom and a few design tweaks set the two apart, with high tables and slightly ill-judged backless stools wringing a few more covers from the bright, compact room. Truly, the food is what sets the newcomer on its own path. Expect a frequently changing menu that refines and develops dishes from the chefs’ time on the beachfront, with Asian-inspired ingredients and techniques combining with local, seasonal additions. Its structure rewards sharing, and between three, 'one of each, please' is a likely request. In addition to obligatory Loch Fyne oysters, smaller plates may include a bowl of cured sea trout that takes a stellar core ingredient and treats it with delicacy, embellishing the faintly briny, meltingly tender flesh with a fresh, fruity shiso dressing. Those flatbreads, long a staple on the Prom, also make a return. In this instance, the deliciously charred, doughy breads contrast magnificently with one of two spreadables: a luxurious, smooth mackerel pâté, punctuated with a sweet celery pickle, or a romesco and 'nduja spread, brimming with spice and rich, roasted pepper. Mains veer between classical and creative – a cod option tends toward the latter. Wrapped in daikon, the fillet nestles alongside an intense prawn mousse that would sit happily in a siu mai dumpling, with a fish broth of staggering, savoury depth and umami richness rounding out the dish. It is a hugely ambitious, complex and delicious piece of cooking. Service is friendly, swift and knowledgeable throughout, with drinks guidance hitting the mark. Wines come from a concise list of around 50 bottles starting at £29, taking in predominantly Old World producers and offering around a dozen options by the glass.
Dining Information:
Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Credit card required
30-31 Albert Pace, Edinburgh, Lothians EH7 5HN
0131 600 0990
