Eighty Eight
Glasgow, Strathclyde
Epitomising the old maxim that ‘good things come in small packages’, Eighty Eight's open kitchen is little bigger than the interior of a Transit van with diners sitting against the plant-festooned walls in convivial proximity. A good job it's a ‘small plate concept’ then, as the petite tables couldn’t accommodate much more. However, what the place lacks in scale it makes up for in ambition; dishes on the regularly changing menu put the emphasis on plant-based dishes that pack a flavour punch. Sourdough with a moreish goat's cheese custard and runny marmalade provides a confident start, with the overall effect delightfully reminiscent of dippy eggs. Onglet tartare with wild garlic and beef-fat croûtons is richly satisfying, conjuring more childhood memories of Sunday roast drippings on toast. Dishes ramble confidently around the Med: crispy patatas bravas croquettes adorned with aïoli segue easily into a more Lebanese-influenced aubergine accompanied by burnt-onion yoghurt, preserved lemon and pomegranate. Larger dishes such as pea and Parmesan agnoletti prove the chef has a deft touch when making pasta, while a hearty chunk of cod is cooked with exactitude and confidently matched with tapenade and Gordal olive. A well-judged rhubarb and ginger panna cotta braves wafer-thin slivers of tart raw stalk, bringing proceedings to a palate-cleansing close. It would be easy to walk past this unassuming spot, but stop and watch the chefs through the front window and you might just be tempted in.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required
88 Dumbarton Road, Glasgow, Strathclyde G11 6NX
0141 212 6050
