Cinder Belsize Park
Belsize Park, London
Post-lockdown, chef Jake Finn’s Belsize Park eatery started with outside seating only but has quickly become a vibrant addition to the local community. With just over a 12 covers indoors, it’s a tight squeeze (a few tables lined-up alongside a long banquette), but there’s an easy-going, convivial vibe about the place – ‘like sitting in someone's front room,’ observed one visitor. Relaxed, well-informed staff know the crowd and go about their business breezily. The menu isn't fussy either, there's plenty of choice and almost everything is ‘kissed by the flames’ of the Josper grill. Proceedings start well, with moreish, almost ‘ashy' grilled bread, confit garlic tahini and burnt tomato salsa. After that, it's all about full-on flavours and intelligent ideas, with plenty of char to boot – from courgettes with stracciatella, pine nuts and sour cherry molasses to lamb loin chops dressed up with yoghurt, maple and sage. Fish is also worth a punt – our cod had a special texture and smoky edge, or there might be whole sea bream with fennel, radish and fresh herbs. A couple of desserts (crème brûlée, lemon posset) round things off. Drinks are reasonably priced across the range, from an impressive cocktail menu to a fairly classical wine list offering plenty by the glass. In short, Cinder is ‘exactly what you want from a neighbourhood restaurant.’
