Chutney Mary
St James's, London
London’s original smart Indian, Chutney Mary began life in Chelsea in 1990, where it introduced Brits not only to regional cooking from the seven main cuisines of India but also to the potential of paying top dollar for the sort of top-quality food one might find in a five-star hotel on the Subcontinent – then a novel concept in the UK. It’s a measure of how embedded Chutney Mary is in the foodie psyche of the capital that a move to St James’s in 2016 – to better compete with the high-end Mayfair scene – felt entirely natural, though for all the finery of the setting (well-spaced tables, alluring lighting, elegant staff) the joy of eating at Chutney Mary is cooking that, while undoubtedly refined, always remains recognisable. A baked venison samosa arrives as a pastry cone as thin and crisp as a dosa, deep-filled with richly minced meat. Crispy boneless chicken wings are even more inventive, bitesize cubes of juicy flesh wrapped in crisp skin, sweetly glazed with kokum and star anise. But this is also a kitchen that values repeat custom enough not to mess with the classics: fat tandoori wild prawns as chubby as a baby’s fist; butter chicken slow-cooked in a velvety, caramelised tomato sauce ('like luxury Heinz soup'); kid gosht biryani so much more fragrant than the usual lamb version (the result of steaming in saffron under a pastry lid). Vegetarian options – spiced corn ribs that look like coils of yellow tentacles, a glossy lozenge of glazed tandoori paneer – are just as worthy of attention, while distinctly flavoured side dishes such as a saag of seasonal greens may be the best thing about a meal here. Not ready to commit to the cost of a full dinner? Try cocktails and snacks in the sophisticated Pukka Bar.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Credit card required, Deposit required
73 St James's Street, St James's SW1A 1PH
020 7629 6688
