Cambio de Tercio
Earl's Court, London
Flagship of the three-strong Cambio de Tercio group, this Spanish favourite has been a fixture of the Old Brompton Road scene for almost three decades. A distinctive yellow logo on a black background announces the place and the warm, comforting dining room isn’t short on character, with black slate tiles, black leather seats and matador-themed oil paintings on vividly coloured walls (deep yellow, crimson, raspberry). A whole, acorn-fed Iberian ham from Jabugo stands proudly on the counter, while the menu offers some 20 tapas, ranging from must-order ham croquetas (crisp on the outside, cheesy within) to a crispy 'taco' loaded with a ceviche of red prawns from Huelva. New items appear regularly too: we enjoyed an innovative plate of sea bream (its skin quickly blowtorched) topped with seaweed and lifted by a light, citrussy yuzu and aji amarillo sauce. However, a dish of confit leeks with a rosemary vinaigrette and olive oil was let down by undercooking. Larger items include beef Wellington with truffle and Madeira sauce (a Spanish twist on a British classic) as well as grilled ‘pluma Ibérica’ pork with roast pineapple, prunes and chard. There’s a ‘catch of the day’ too, plus a handful of desserts (hot Spanish chocolate and churros pastries, say). Owner, Abel Lusa hails from Rioja and takes his native wines seriously: with some 500 bottles to choose from, this may be the largest Spanish list in the UK. Reds are given greater prominence than whites, and there are some fine old vintages from Vega Sicilia Unico, the 'royalty' of Spanish estates.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Credit card required
161-163 Old Brompton Road, Earl's Court SW5 0LJ
020 7244 8970
