Cadet
Newington Green, London
There’s a new breed of eatery in London that blurs the lines between wine bar and restaurant. Not so Cadet on Newington Green, which is a wine bar through and through. Defining features: no reservations; seating at high bar stools only; a blackboard menu; a cracking wine list. That said, chef Jamie Smart (Flor, P. Franco, Auberge de Chassignolles) and London charcutier George Jephson have put this neighbourhood ‘cave à vin’ on the restaurant map – so do come ready to eat your way through the menu, a doable feast of around dozen dishes. We like the speed of service – order a glass of Languedoc rosé and a plate of rillettes or tomato salad and it can be in front of you within seconds of sitting down. In the case of Jephson’s epic pâté en croûte and fromage de tête, all the hard work is done long before you arrive. The pâté, stuffed with dried figs, green peppercorns, pistachios, and rich in jelly, is a thing of beauty. Other dishes at our July inspection included the following: lamb leg with peas and mint; monkfish liver tartine; a generous tranche of trout with beurre blanc and pickled wild onions that were little bigger than peppercorns; a slice of honey semifreddo with apricots and the careful addition of lavender. The menu changes daily, so also expect the likes of quail with sprout tops and chestnuts or smoked eel chou farci, depending on the calendar. Take your time over the full drinks list, which encompasses cider, Belgian beers, orange wines, fizzy tipples and more, mainly from France and all available to go – selections by the glass are scrawled on the blackboard. Note: service is compris – factored into the menu pricing.
