Brook’s
Brighouse, West Yorkshire
‘We came for a mini break from Norfolk, had an evening meal – so good we came back for Sunday brunch,’ noted a satisfied couple who discovered this personally run, light-filled and stylish restaurant. Indeed, regulars tell us Brook’s has emerged from the devastating Calder Valley floods of 2020 looking ‘more handsome than ever’. Chef Dan Maxwell's cooking brims with flavour and vitalty, his regularly changing menu built around sharing plates, both small and large. As ever, seasonal produce plays a role: tempura asparagus with burnt-onion hollandaise; cured sea bream with wild garlic and almond sauce; earthy red and golden beetroot, nicely spiced and dotted with capers, a swirl of black-garlic houmous and a handful of chervil. Readers have also praised snacks of goat’s cheese profiterole with truffle honey, and a rabbit ‘croqueta’ with tarragon mayonnaise, as well as a ‘spot-on’ skate wing with braised leek. Other hits have included a ‘sensational’ dish of chargrilled ox heart, the meat yielding to the fork, served with potato purée shot through with Baron Bigod cheese and topped with a tangle of crisp shallots for crunchy texture. The brief dessert menu could feature a sharp rhubarb ice-cream sandwich or a magnificent torta della nonna. Expect ‘sweet' service, a warm vibe and impressive cocktails, as well as a wine list that is both accessible and affordable.
