Bob Bob Ricard City

City, London

Rating: Good

Anglo-French | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Very Good

Deliciousness: Good

Warmth: Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

On the third floor of the 'Cheesegrater', Sir Richard Rogers' late-modernist monolith, Bob Bob Ricard's City branch doesn't have the jaw-dropping views that a higher floor would provide, but (and it's a big but) the real jaw-dropper is Shayne Brady's flamboyant interior design. It's shimmeringly opulent. If that, and the dress code ('Elegant, ties not required. Formal fashionwear is welcome') rings alarm bells, this place might not be for you. Sister to the Soho original, BBR City is the perfect home for this blend of glamour and modern comfort food. Every table is actually a booth (complete with its own 'Press for Champagne' button) which adds to the sense of exclusivity, while the menu of British and European classics has an egalitarian appeal. Vodka shots (served at -18°C) and three caviars (served with crème fraîche and blinis) are perfect openers in such surroundings, but things don't have to get out of hand. Menu prices aren't too terrifying given the setting. Stinking Bishop cheese soufflé is an opening course of distinction, or how about escargots en persillade? Classics and comforts continue into main courses of chicken and Champagne pie, cassoulet with crispy confit duck leg, or beef Wellington with truffle jus for two to share. Finish with a shot of Limonnaya vodka (-18°C, naturally) and/or rum and raisin rice pudding. The wine list opens with Champagnes galore and doesn't stint on the French classics – just don't expect many options below £40 a bottle.

Rating: Good

Anglo-French | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Very Good

Deliciousness: Good

Warmth: Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

Dining Information:

Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Credit card required

The Leadenhall Building, 122 Leadenhall Street, City EC3V 4AB

020 3145 1000