Blas
St David's, Pembrokeshire
Hotel restaurants don’t always thrill, but while Blas has a focus on creating accessible favourites, it does this with plenty of panache – making it worth a visit even if you’re not staying overnight. Twr Y Felin sits on the edge of St David’s, walking distance from the centre, in an impressive building that was once a windmill but is considerably bigger than its history would suggest. It’s been refashioned as an upmarket destination in recent years, and there’s an enjoyable focus on modern art throughout – including in the restaurant, whose walls display work on a grand scale. The styling is modern, dark and slightly clubby, with a sense of occasion, while service is polished but warm. There’s an emphasis on local ingredients, so a typical starter could be crab from the neighbouring village of Solva with slivers of cucumber, melon and brown crab mayonnaise – a fresh, balanced, artfully presented dish. A main course of potato gnocchi also impressed – fluffy, light and pan-fried, topped with tender broad beans, yellow courgette, spring onion, a gauzy espuma flourish and some dainty fresh herbs. At the other end of the spectrum, braised beef cheek with caramelised onion, chives and brioche crumb also hit the spot, delivering melting savoury richness and a sweet onion counterpoint. Desserts, while reassuringly familiar, are done with style and originality – cheesecake with strawberries and elderflower sorbet, for example, delivered all the expected luxury in a picture-perfect package; after that, nibble on playful 'pâté de fruits' petits fours shaped like teddy bears. The wine list features more than 30 Old World finds at a range of price points.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Credit card required, Deposit required
Twr Y Felin Hotel, Ffordd Caerfai, St David's, Pembrokeshire SA62 6QT
01437 725555
