Birchwood

Flimwell, East Sussex

Rating: Good

Modern British | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Very Good

Deliciousness: Very Good

Warmth: Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

If there is one thing readers and guide inspectors agree on, it’s the pleasure to be had from a meal at this unusual venture from Will Devlin (of The Small Holding a few miles away). Located to the west of Flimwell, on the A268, Flimwell Park is a sustainable timber and weathered steel 'mixed use development' which backs onto 46 acres of sustainable woodland and, with its focus on self-sufficiency, Birchwood fits right in. Stripped-back and Nordic in style, the daytime eatery is open for ‘awesome’ breakfasts and unfussy fixed-price three-course lunches – the combination of superlative local ingredients, relaxed service and a striking location elevating the restaurant beyond the ordinary. Come hungry, for the portions are as generous as the flavours are muscular. An immensely satisfying chunky smoked haddock and leek chowder perhaps, or a generous portion of meaty chicken wings coated with black pepper and honey and served with a pot of sriracha mayo for dipping. Follow with miso-glazed rib of beef, braised long and slow, with polenta and beer onions, or go lighter with perfectly timed roast hake and creamy celeriac purée, mushroom cream and some superb, tender pickled mussels. Finish by sharing a light but rich sticky toffee pudding topped with a dollop of clotted cream plus a honey parfait with blackberry curd and frosted cobnuts. The whole show is fleshed out with a large fair-weather terrace and a brief but high-quality and price-conscious wine list.

Rating: Good

Modern British | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Very Good

Deliciousness: Very Good

Warmth: Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

Dining Information:

Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly

13 Flimwell Park, Hawkhurst Road, Flimwell, East Sussex TN5 7FJ

01892 341598