Beach House
Oxwich, Swansea
Hywel Griffith has put this blissful corner of Gower firmly on the map, adding elevated dining to the many pleasures of Oxwich Bay. And, yes, Beach House really is on the beach, in a one-storey, old stone building hunkered down against the wind with sand on its doorstep. Inside, it’s a study in suave, artfully understated sophistication: white-painted beamed ceilings, wood floors and considered, mostly modernist furnishings. Think rustic-chic meets European urban cool and you’ll get the idea. The gleaming lights and sparkling metal of the pass give a glimpse of the kitchen, where dishes of flawless precision are created. This is multidimensional cooking, excelling both visually and in terms of flavour and texture – and with the confidence to add extra elements, taking the food into sublime territory. A touch of crispy shallot and black-garlic purée, for example, adds sparkle to a tender partridge breast that comes with delicate salsify, nasturtium leaf and a striking star anise and partridge sauce. In similar vein, Mon Las blue cheese, pickled pear and crispy bacon bits boost the beauty of rosy, melt-in-the mouth venison with Jerusalem artichoke purée and a rich, syrupy jus. Glorious local vegetables also show up strongly, perhaps Gower pumpkin, puréed and teamed with pickled beetroot, mascarpone, miso-roasted mushrooms and pumpkin seeds to make a texturally thrilling dish. There are three menus offering various options via three, six or eight courses. At inspection, Gower lamb with celeriac fondant and purée, creamed cavolo nero and a luxuriously rich lamb belly ragù topped with whipped potato and panko breadcrumbs delighted, as did a cloud-light bara brith soufflé – here served with breakfast-tea ice cream for a sumptuous take on a timelessly beautiful and comforting combination. A truly international wine list offers something at every price point, with the focus on interest and sustainability.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Credit card required
Oxwich Beach, Oxwich, Swansea SA3 1LS
01792 278277
