8th February 2012
Interview with Rupert Rowley
Rupert Rowley is Head Chef at the stellar restaurant at Fischer's Baslow Hall in Derbyshire, where menus are driven by impeccable sourcing, stunning technique and an abundance of rich, deep flavours.
With the Olympics on the horizon, what would you cook Great Britain's Olympic team?
That would have to be an 'Olympic English Breakfast' to start their day. I would do individual ‘in-one-pan’ breakfasts with all trimmings including back and streaky bacon, fried bread, free-range eggs (two), tomatoes, black pudding, mushrooms and baked beans!
What kitchen gadget could you not live without?
My Pacojet. We started using one about five years ago and I couldn’t live without it now. They are great for sweet and savoury ice creams, purées and granitas. Less sugar is required and the final product has more flavour and an amazing creamy texture.
What is the biggest myth about being a chef?
I think nowadays being a chef is seen as a trendy glamorous job, however unfortunately it is far from the truth. The hours are long and unsociable, you are on your feet all day for up to 14 hours, and no matter what level you cook at, there is always the washing up to do!
What's been the highlight of your career so far?
I have had several high points in my career and so choosing one would be difficult. When I was 19, I was offered a job at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons. I feel extremely privileged to have worked there for 2 ½ years on the hot starters section. It was a great start to my career.
Do you have a favourite local recipe or ingredient?
My favourite ingredient at the moment is Yorkshire forced rhubarb. It’s such a special ingredient with only 12 producers in a triangle of land between Leeds, Bradford and Wakefield. I enjoy using it in savoury and sweet dishes. When it is at its best, we poachit for breakfast, make crumbles for Sunday lunch and feature it within our menus. A popular dish has been Toasted Marshmallow with Rhubarb Crisp, Rhubarb Sorbet and Gingerbread.
What is your favourite tipple?
At the end of a busy night nothing beats a cold beer! I also enjoy a G & T when I go to a nice bar on a rare evening off!
What most excites you about the restaurant industry today?
People are better educated with the current media exposure of television programmes such as MasterChef. Eating out is popular at the moment as the public are so intrigued by chefs and their restaurants. It is a really exciting time in the kitchen as my team of chefs are more inspired as well as more knowledgeable about new trends and ingredients.
What do you eat when you're feeling lazy?
Takeaway curry – I’m afraid nothing beats a good one when I’m tired of cooking.
What's the most ridiculous culinary term you've heard?
Some of the descriptions chefs use to describe dishes and techniques on menus, e.g. 'an expression of asparagus'.
What's been the worst culinary trend of recent years?
I’m not into really long tasting menus with tiny portions and having to eat everything with a teaspoon. I like to eat a complete dish not just one or two mouthfuls.
...And the best?
It would have to be using a smoke gun. It adds real theatre in the dining room and a very mild smoky flavour.
What's the best training for a chef?
Going to a good catering college is the best training for someone who wants to be a chef. It’s the best way to learn all the basics and get sound knowledge of food. Students can then choose which part of the industry they want to work in.
What is your favourite food combination?
I like to pair meat and fish together. I love the different textures you can get from fish or shellfish paired with braised or roasted meats. It is very interesting. On my menu at the moment I have Hand Dived Scallops with Trealy Farm black pudding, for example.