15th February 2012
Interview with Mary-Ellen McTague
Mary-Ellen McTague is head chef at Aumbry in Prestwich, Greater Manchester. She won The Good Food Guide Editors' Award for 'best up-and-coming chef' in 2011, and in this year's edition her cooking is praised for its 'precision and charm'. Her delicious recipe for Braised Pork with Black Peas and Apple Sauce appears in Britain's Best Dish - The Chefs.
Back in 2011, you were awarded an Editors' Award for 'Best-up-and-coming chef' by The Good Food Guide editors. What did this mean to you?
It came as a real shock; we didn't really expect anyone to take any notice of what we were doing. It felt brilliant though, a real vindication of all the effort Laurence and I had been putting in to the food. It's given us a bit more confidence and also spurred us on to achieve more.
With the Olympics on the horizon, what would you cook Great Britain's Olympic team?
I'd have to check with their dieticians – I'd hate to put a spanner in the works!
Who is your ideal diner?
Anyone that loves food – enthusiasts make great customers because they are always keen to engage, and that makes them a pleasure to serve.
What do you eat for breakfast?
Cornflakes, if anything. Two small children = mayhem in the mornings. On days off we have bacon butties.
Do you have a favourite local recipe or ingredient?
Too many to mention... Bury black pudding, ramsons, Formby asparagus, Southport samphire, Hesketh Bank strawberries, Inglewhite pork and Lyme Park venison to name but a few.
What is your favourite tipple?
Wine in general, champagne in particular.
What is your favourite food combination?
Bread, tomoatoes, cheese and cured meats. In the form of pizza or a sandwich ideally. There is nothing finer as long as each component is in top condition.
What do you eat when you're feeling lazy?
Fish and chips from Armstrong's, Manchester (Home of the Jumbo Cod). Or curry.
What most excites you about the restaurant industry today?
People are better educated with the current media exposure of television programmes such as MasterChef. Eating out is popular at the moment as the public are so intrigued by chefs and their restaurants. It is a really exciting time in the kitchen as my team of chefs are more inspired as well as more knowledgeable about new trends and ingredients.
What's been the worst culinary trend of recent years?
Suspect combinations in the name of 'fusion'.
...And the best?
Using more locally produced, and naturally occurring, food. It's been thrilling discovering the wealth of produce and wild food available on our doorstep, and we are in a built-up area. The return to historic recipes and ingredients too – it's a fascinating subject.
What's your favourite job in the kitchen?
Plating the food – bringing together all the elements that everyone has worked on. And chopping chives.
What most excites you about the restaurant industry today?
The new gadgets and ingredients, and the ability to share information about them so quickly. So much more collaboration seems to go on as a result.
What kitchen gadget could you not live without?
Aside from my knives, probably the Thermomix. I wish I could say Pacojet, but alas we don't own one yet. Oh, and the waterbath and vac pac machines – we love those!